Skirt-chart.



PATENTED MAR. 1, 1904.

L. DAVIS.

SKIRT CHART.

APPLIoATIoN FILED SEPT. a, 1903.

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L. DAVIS;

SKIRT: CHART.

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Witnesses l r JMM" Y BY Attorney Inventur UNITED STATES Patented March 1, 1904.

LoYoLA DAvIs, oE OMAHA, NEBRASKA.

SKIRT-CHART.

SPECIFICATION forming` part of Letters Patent No. 753,680, dated March 1, 1904.

Application filed September 8, 1903. Serial No. 172,341. (N model.) i

To all whom it ina/y concern,.-

Beit known that I, LoYoLA DAvIs, a citizen o f the United States, residing at Omaha,`in the county of Douglas and State of Nebraska, have invented certain new andI useful Improvements in Skirt-Charts; and I do declare the ifollowing to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

invention is an improved system for drafting skirtsin dressmaking, and particularly comprises means for correctly drafting the several gores of skirts of the style nowin vogue, known as flare skirts, to secure a smooth fit from the waist to the hips and the approved hang and flare.

In the accompanying* drawings, Figure l shows the several pattern-pieces for the upper portions of the gores. Fig. 2 shows a` rule for drawing the flared lower portions of the several gores, and Fig. 3 is a diagram showing the manner of using one of the upper gore-pattern pieces and the rule for drafting a skirt-gore.

In the embodiment of my invention I provide a suitable number of pattern-pieces for the upper portions of the skirt or gores, the said pattern-pieces being of appropriate length to extend from the waist to the knees. I here show four of such pattern-pieces, respectively, l, 2, 3, and 4, the same being designed for use in drafting the upper vportions of the gores of seven gore skirts. The patternpiece l is for the front gore, the piece2is for the rst side gore, the piece 3 is for the second side gore, and the piece 4 is for the two back gores. Fach of the said pattern-pieces is of substantially segmental shape, of suitable lengthV to extend fromthe waist to the knee, is provided at its upper end with a waist-line scale A at a suitable distance from its upper end with a hip-scale B, and is provided at opposite sides for a suitable distance from its lower end with length-scales C D, the latter comprising a plurality of stencil perforations, as shown. The front edge of the front gorepattern l is straight from its upper to its lower side, and the outer edge thereof is straight from its lower edge to the hip-scale latter to the waist-line scale.

and curved from the hip-scale to the waistline, as at E. The pattern-piece 2 for the upper portion of the first side gore has its edges straight from the hip-scale' to its lower end and curved appropriately from the hipscale to the waist-line scale. The patternpiece 3 for the` upper portion of the second side gore is similar to the piece 2, but has one straight edge from the hip-scale to its lower end and one curved edge. The pattern-piece 4, or the upper'portions of the back gores, has one of its edges straight from end to end and its opposite edge straight from its lower edge to theV hip-scale and curved from the I do not desire to limit myself as to the number of the said pattern-pieces or as to the exact shape thereof, as these details may be varied without departing from the spirit of my invention and within the scope of theappended claims. -I

also employ in connection with my patternpieces for the upper portions of the 'several gores a rule 5 for drafting the flares andlower edges of the lower portions of -the several gores. The said rule is of the form shown in Fig. 2, is curved from end-to end, its respecvtive side edges forming curves 0f different radii, the edge d being appropriately curved for the deep flare at one edge of a gore, and its edge e being appropriately curved for the relatively shallow are at the opposite edge of the gore. From the point f, which indicates one extreme of the shallow Hare edge e, the said rule is tapered to a point, as at g. The deep flare edge lis provided with scales a, b, and c, which are respectively for the width of the front gore at the oor and the width of the second and third gores. The length of the deep flare edge d corresponds to the required width of the back gore at'the floor.

I will now describe the'method of drafting the front gore of a skirt by means of Vmy improved appliances. longitudinally. Assuming that the measurements of the person to be fitted are twentyfour inches at the waist, forty inches at the hips, that the front length of the gore is to be forty-two inches, its side length forty-three inches, and its back length forty-four inches, the pattern-piece 1 is placed at one end of the The cloth is first foldedv IOO cloth on the fold with its straight edge in line with the fold. By means of the scales on the said pattern-piece the point on the waist-line scale a, corresponding with the required waist measurement, twenty-four inches, is marked on the cloth, as at L in Fig. 3. The required hip measurement, fol-t5T inches, is marked thereon by means of the hip-scale at the point 71, and the required front length, forty-two inches, is marked thereon, as at 7c. The edge of the pattern-piece 1, having the scale D and thecurveE, is then employed as a rule for marking the line Z where the cloth is to be out to form the sides of the upper portion of the gore. With a suitable rule the required front length, forty-two inches, is measured from the waistline on the folded edge of the cloth and marked, as at m, and using the edge d of the rule 5 and the scale a thereof the curved lower edge or are edge of the gore is then marked from m to n. The rule 5 is then turned in inverted position with one end of its curved edge d at the point f: and the said curved edge also at the point n, and the curved line o is then drawn, which is the required flare of the lower portion of the gore. The said rule 5 and the other pattern-pieces are similarly appropriately used for drafting the other gores of the skirt, it being understood, of course, that only the cloth employed for the front gore needs to be folded and that both side edges of each of the pattern-pieces 2 3 4 are used for marking the side edges of the other gores.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

l. The herein-described drafting devices for skirt-patterns, comprising a pattern-piece for the upper portion of a gore, having a waistline scale, a transverse hip-scale, and lengthscales at the sides of its lower portion, in cornbination with a ruler for the flared lower portion of a gore, having appropriately-curved sides corresponding with the shallow and deep flares of the lower portions of a gore and having scales on its deep flare side for the extreme width of the several gores at the bottom.

2. The herein-described drafting devices for skirt-patterns, comprising a plurality of pattern-pieces for the upper portions of the gores, each having a waist-line scale, a transverse hip-scale, and length-scales at the sides of its lower portion, in combination with a ruler for the flared lower portion of a gore, having appropriately curved sides corresponding with the shallow and deep flares of the lower portions of a gore and having scales on its deep iare side for the extreme width of the several gores at the bottom.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand in presence of two subscribing witnesses.

LOYOLA DAVIS. 

